![]() ![]() That is what causes squeaking in the stairs. They have no treading hold and can just loosen at the back of the riser, mostly in the middle of the tread. 2) apply some glue, pull the riser into place and clamp overnight 3) drive a small finishing nail into the step at an angle to reinforce the glue. Now I can pull on the riser with a thin cable (). The way they are constructed, with nails, staples and shines, these fasteners are usually just straight shank. 1) drill a small hole in the riser near the bottom. Just constantly being walked on by 150 avg lbs beings. Stairs are under a lot of stress while being used. ![]() All this, given the opportunity since the raw stair framed was exposed, is another step to prevent squeaks. The video, but he should have taken the opportunity to rescrew and tune up the staircase before installations. Shimming Under the tread with cause space and over time could cause squeaks. You want a solid surface connection of the new tread to existing, with adhesive and sneaky nails. Highly do not recommend shimming the treads, especular with that few spaces that far apart. Each stair tread and riser is custom fit, and you’ll want to number everything moving forward for the easiest installation. Step 1: Measure & Cut The Stair Treads To Lengthįirst things first, to make it easier as we moved forward with the project, we numbered each of our 12 steps. Paint (I used Super White by Benjamin Moore in semi-gloss).Polyurethane (We used Minwax Polyurethane, Fast Drying in Clear Satin).Todd’s Favorite Measuring Laser (Optional, but very handy and accurate!).1/2″ MDF Material (We used a full 4″x 8″ sheet for 12 stairs.). ![]() Oak Stair Treads ( These are similar to the ones we used!).In this case when originally built I'm sure the risers and treads would be assembled and then installed as a unit.Affiliate links are provided below. Now see how in this modern stair you must have access to the underside in order to do the work: Despite how this may sound this is still riser-first, since the bottom riser would be the first part fitted :-) Note that since the tread on one step must be in place before the next riser in ascending order you're forced to work from the bottom upwards. Source: Carpentry & Joinery, Frederick C. Some illustrations will help clarify some of the above, see how in both of these traditional designs it would be impossible to fit the risers if the treads were fixed in place: Various design specifics may also affect whether you work top-down or bottom-up, since in some cases the design forces you to work in a specific direction because of how the treads and risers fit together (housing joints or dados, interlocking rebates/rabbets or plain butt joints throughout). When doing a rebuild whether you have access to the undersides of the stairs, or not, is also a factor. In this case riser and tread can be fitted together (with any reinforcing blocks) and then installed as a piece. Of course whether you're retrofitting an existing staircase or building a new staircase makes a big difference, since in a new build you're doing the assembly work sideways with the stringer flat on the floor. Sometimes it is all risers first, then the treads, sometimes it's riser, tread, riser, tread etc. Risers generally go first when installed in situ because the risers couldn't be fitted after the treads are in place, or not as easily. ![]()
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